Mountaineering Expedition in Nepal
Seasons
There are four mountaineering seasons spring (March-May), summer (June-August), autumn (September-November) and winter (December-February). A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineers. Climbing permits are issued by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation (MOTCA) for 135 peaks known as mountaineering peaks, and by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for 18 smaller peaks, known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6,654 m in altitude.
Permission
The following documents have to be sent to MOTCA, Mountaineering Division when applying for a climbing permit completed application, endorsement of the National alpine Club, short biographies of all the members of the expedition (with photograph and signature), map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map. Enlistment of the expedition's name does not require any fee and it should not be paid before receiving the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.
Permits to climb the 18 trekking peaks are issued by NMA on "first come first served" basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognised trekking agency of Nepal as a local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu . The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during the expedition.
Fees
A royalty (climbing fee) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000 (according to the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest is charged by MOTCA for a group of seven persons.
An additional US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to US$ 1,500 per person (US$ 10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group exceeds seven persons.
The full amount of the royalty has to be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit, otherwise it may be cancelled. The royalty must be paid directly to MOTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign currency only.
For trekking peaks, a royalty of US$ 300 or US$ 150 is charged by NMA. The permit is valid for a period of one month for a group of up to 10 persons. An additional amount of US$ 7.50 per person is charged if the group exceeds 10 persons.
A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for unclimbed open peaks, on "first come first served" basis.
Royalty for the Mountaineering Expedition
( A)For the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha)
• The royalty for the mountaineering expedition team not exceeding seven in number from the route other than the general route (Southeast route) shall be fifty thousand U.S dollar.
• The royalty for the mountaineering expedition from general route (Southeast) route) for the mountaineering expedition team shall be as follows:
Member of the mountaineering expedition team |
Royalty (U.S Dollars) |
One member |
25,000 |
Two member |
40,000 |
Three member |
48,000 |
Four member |
56,000 |
Five member |
60,000 |
Six member |
66,000 |
Seven member |
70,000 |
• Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beyond the number as it is mentioned in clause (1) and (2) and an additional royalty amount of ten thousand U.S dollars per members shall be charged for such additional members.
(B) For the other Mountain:
• The royalty for the mountain shall be as follows:
Height of Mountains |
Royalty for up to seven members (U.S Dollars) |
Royalty for each additional member (U.S Dollars) |
Above 8000 m. (Other than Mt. Everest )
|
10,000 |
1,500 |
From 750 m. to 8000 m |
3,000 |
500 |
From 7001 m. to 7500 m |
2,000 |
300 |
Less than 6501 m. |
1,000 |
200 |
• Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beside as prescribed in clause (1).
Note: If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.
Restrictions
Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, transreceiver sets and other communication equipment are controlled items in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the entry point.
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