DEVGHAT (or Deoghat), 5km northwest of Narayanghat, is a lot of people's idea of a great place to die. An astonishingly tranquil spot, it stands where the wooded hills meet the shimmering plains, and the Trisuli and the Kali Gandaki merge to form the Narayani, one of the major tributaries of the Ganga ( Ganges ). Some say Sita, the heroine of the Ramayan, died here. Many have retired to Devghat to avoid being a burden to their children, to escape ungrateful children, or because they have no children to look after them in their old age and to perform the necessary rites when they die. Pujari (priests) also practice here - their professional signs are the only advertising you'll see - and often take in young candidates for the priesthood as resident students.

A huge pilgrimage is held at Devghat on Makar Sankranti (Jan 14 or 15), and Shiva Raatri, falling on the new moon of February-March, brings many Indian devotees. At other times, sadhus and pilgrims do puja at the point where the rivers meet - cremations are also held here - and old-timers meditate outside their huts in the sun. Be sensitive to the residents, and don't disturb them or touch anything that might be holy: many are orthodox Baahuns and your touch would be polluting.